Free pattern: honeycomb cable reversible hat

Update 1-31-08: Thanks to blogger Carla, I've found and corrected a mistake in the increase round on the cabled side.

As you can probably tell, I have a thing for very, very warm hats. Given that I live in Chicago, that’s not surprising. While a single-layer hat may be sufficient to block out the cold, once the wind blows, your head is freezing. Therefore, I try to make my hats at least double-layered, if at all possible.


(The honeycomb side.)

This hat was designed to match a scarf my mom bought me, which has a honeycomb cable pattern all over. However, I didn’t want to make both layers of the hat cabled to save time, so I knit the second layer plain. Now I have a hat that can be worn two ways: with the cabled side out, or with the plain side out. There are two layers of wooly warmth (made even denser by the rather close gauge and cables) all over, and the fold-up brim (or cuff. I never know what to call it) gives FOUR layers to protect the sensitive ears. I test-drove (er, wore) this baby this past weekend, with temperatures being a balmy 0F (-18C) and with 20mph winds, and my head was very, very warm. So you know this hat really works.


(The plain side.)

The two layers of the hat are achieved by first knitting hat with a ribbed brim and honeycomb cabled top, then picking up stitched along the cast-on edge and knitting another hat with a honeycomb cabled brim and plain top. One hat then folds up into the other, and the brim folds up, creating a hat that’s all cabled on one side and plain with a ribbed cuff on the other side. To accommodate the double thickness of the hats, each hat/layer is knit LONGER than a hat should be. Be careful to try your hat on if you decide to make yours single-layer so that you don’t end up with a jester’s cap.

Size: to fit my 22-inch head. The hat is meant to fit snugly, though, so it should stretch to accomodate most noggins.

Materials:

-Lion Brand Fishermen’s Wool, 1 skein (you’ll only use about half the skein). Feel free to sub any worsted weight wool; you'll need around 200 yds.
-Size US6/4mm needles (1 19inch circular, 1 set of 4 DPNs)
-Cable needle
-Stitch marker
-Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches and 32 rounds = 4 inches in honeycomb rib pattern (unstretched). As I have given all instructions in inches rather than rounds, don’t worry if your round gauge doesn’t match up exactly.

Honeycomb rib cable directions:

Worked in multiples of 10 stitches:

Rounds 1-3: (k8, p2) to end of round
Round 4: (C4B, C4F, p2) to end of round
Rounds 5-7: (k8, p2) to end of round
Round 8: (C4F, C4B, p2) to end of round

Abbreviations:
k=knit
p=purl
C4B = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, k the next 2 stitches, k the 2 stitches from the cable needle
C4F = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, k the next 2 stitches, k the 2 stitches from the cable needle
CO: cast on

Directions:

First layer (honeycomb cabled top):

Using the circular needle, CO 100 stitches. Join, being careful not to twist. Mark beginning of round if desired. Work in k2, p2 rib until work measures about 2.5 inches from CO edge.

Increase round: k8, p2, then (k7, m1 knitwise, p2)10 times. 110 stitches.

Next round: begin honeycomb rib pattern starting on round 2 (k8, p2 to end of round). Continue in honeycomb pattern until hat measures 9 inches from CO edge, ending with round 8 of honeycomb pattern.

Begin decreases (switch to DPNs once the stitches start to stretch too much on the circular):

Round 1: (k8, p2tog) to end of round. 99 stitches
Round 2: (k8, p1) to end of round. 99 stitches
Round 3: (k3, k2tog, k3, p1) to end of round. 88 stitches
Round 4: (k7, p1) to end of round. 88 stitches
Round 5: (k2, ssk, k3, p1) to end of round. 77 stitches.
Round 6: (k2, k2tog, k2, p1) to end of round. 66 stitches.
Round 7: (k1, ssk, k2, p1) to end of round. 55 stitches.
Round 8: (k1, k2tog, k1, p1) to end of round. 44 stitches.
Round 9: (k2tog) to end of round. 22 stitches.

Break off yarn, leaving a foot-long tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread yarn tail through all the stitches on the DPNs, taking them off the DPNs as you go. Pull yarn end tightly to secure.

Second layer:

From the CO edge of the first hat, use the circular needle to pick up 110 stitches. (If you can’t pick up 110 stitches, pick up as many as you can and work an increase round to bring you up to 110.)

Work honeycomb rib pattern until the second layer measures 3 inches from CO edge.

Decrease round: (k7, k2tog, p2) 10 times, then k8, p2. 100 stitches.

Next round: (k8, p2) to end of round. Continue to work pattern as set (that is, k8, p2) until second layer measures 9 inches from CO edge. Follow decrease directions as given for the first layer, switching to DPNs when too few stitches remain on the circular needle to work comfortably.

Weave in any yarn ends EXCEPT for the yarn ends at the top of each layer that you used to thread through the leftover stitches. Fold second layer inside first layer. Using the yarn ends left from binding off the leftover stitches, sew from one layer to the other, securing them together in the top center. Tie yarn ends securely and thread to the inside of the hat to hide.

If you fold up the brim, you should now have a hat that has a honeycomb rib pattern on the top and the brim. If you turn the hat inside out, you’ll have a hat that has a wide rib pattern on the top and a k2,p2 cable brim.

Enjoy!

As always, please don’t hesitate to email me if you have any questions (my email is available on the “About Me” page). And if you make this hat, please let me know how you like it…send pictures! Of course, if you find a problem with the pattern or if something is unclear, please let me know, also, so I can fix it for future users!