Free pattern: Green Zebra baby sweater

I made the prototype for this sweater for my younger niece. I was pressed for time and didn’t have a chance to shop for new yarn, so I dug into my stash and used up leftovers. Of course, I didn’t have enough of any one kind of wool to create a solid-colored sweater, so this stripey creation was born.

The body of the sweater is knit seamlessly in one piece, bottom up, using intarsia to create the knitted-in buttonband. Cutting the yarn for each color change would have produced far too many ends for me to want to weave, so I carried the yarn not in use up the edge of the work, tucking it behind the working yarn. The sleeves are knit on DPNs in the round. The sleeves are then joined to the body and a circular yoke is knitted using the principles established by Elizabeth Zimmerman. Once the knitting is done, you’re almost finished – just the underarm seams to close and a few ends to weave in. Add the buttons, and you’re all done.

Of course, you can make variations of this sweater. Ignore the intarsia and striping and knit it all a solid color. Or knit the body all one color with a contrasting buttonband and collar. Or go crazy and make a solid buttonband with more than two colors of stripes for the body. Do whatever you feel like and have fun!



Copyright: This design is mine, and while you’re welcome to use it to knit from, you may NOT republish it, sell it, or give it to a friend. If someone wants the pattern, send them to this site and they can have it for free. You may not distribute my intarsia and yarn-carrying tutorials, claim them as your own, republish them, give them away, or use them to teach a class without my explicit permission. You may, however, link the pattern and tutorials on your blog and send people to this site.

Please do not sell the sweaters knit from this pattern without contacting me and asking me for permission first.

As always, don’t hesitate to email me if you have questions or problems, or, better yet, to show me the finished sweater!

THE PATTERN:

To fit baby: 3 (6, 12, 18, 24) months old

With chest circumference: 16 (17, 18, 19, 20) inches/ 48 (50, 53, 55, 58)cm

Actual finished garment circumference: 19 (20, 21, 22, 23) inches/ 55 (58, 60, 63, 65) cm

Supplies:
-200 (250, 250, 300, 300) yards of worsted weight yarn in color A
-200 (250, 250, 300, 300) yards of worsted weight yarn in color B
-Size US8/5mm circular needle (you won’t be knitting in the round for this, but a circular needle accommodates the stitches better) or needle needed to achieve gauge
-Set of 4 or 5 size US8/5mm DPNs or needle needed to achieve gauge
-7 (7, 8, 9, 9) buttons, up to ½ inch diameter
-Darning needle
-Scrap yarn or stitch holders

Both sweaters were made using leftover balls of yarn, so I wasn’t sure of the exact yardage I used. Using the yardage guidelines given here, you should have more than enough yarn to complete your project, and you can make a cute matching hat with the leftovers!

Green sample made to fit 18 months, using Swish Superwash Worsted in Dublin (dark green) and Paton’s Classic Merino in Leaf (light green). Blue sample made in Knitpicks Wool of the Andes in Blue Bonnet (darker blue) and Knitpicks Merino Style in Frost (aqua).

Gauge:
18 stitches and 25.5 rows = 4 inches

Handy links:

My intarsia tutorial

How to carry yarn.

Techknitter's jogless join tutorial

Instructions:

With color A, CO 90 (94, 100, 106, 112).

Work seed stitch bottom band:

Row 1: (k1, p1) to end of row
Row 2: (p1, k1) to end of row
Row 3: k1, p1, yo, p2tog, (k1,p1) to end of row -- buttonhole made
Row 4: as row 2

Begin striping (You will continue to work a buttonhole every 12 (12, 12, 14, 14) rows, as above):

Row 5: With color A, k1, p1, k1, p1. Switch to color B and k to last 4 stitches. Switch to separate ball of color A and k1, p1, k1, p1. Turn

Row 6: With color A, p1, k1, p1, k1. Switch to color B, remembering to twist the strands (see my intarsia instructions here). P to last 4 stitches. Switch to color A, twisting the strands, and p1, k1, p1, k1.

Rows 7, 9, 11: repeat row 5

Rows 8, 10, 12: repeat row 6

Now you will work a stripe of color A while carrying color B along the wrong side of the fabric along the right-side buttonband (see illustration below).

Row 13: with color A, k1, p1, k1, p1, k to last 4 stitches. Switch to the second ball of color A, twisting the strands, and k1, p1, k1, p1.
Row 14: with second ball of color A, k1, p1, k1, p1. Switch to first ball of color A and p to last 4 stitches, then k1, p1, k1, p1
Rows 15, 17, 19: repeat row 13
Rows 16, 18, 20: repeat row 14

Repeat rows 5-12, then 13-20 (carrying color B as before) until the piece measures 7 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5) inches from cast-on edge. Place all stitches on holder or spare needle and set aside.

Sleeves:

Sleeves are worked on DPNs in the round, with the same striping pattern. Make two sleeves the same way.

CO 34 (36, 38, 40, 42) in color A

Distribute somewhat evenly to 3 DPNs (you’re welcome to use a set of 5 DPNs if you prefer, of course). Join stitches, being careful not to twist.

Round 1 and 3: (k1, p1) to end of round
Round 2 and 4: (p1, k2) to end of round

Switch to color B and knit 8 rounds, carrying color A up the back as you did for the body.
Please refer to Technitter’s excellent jogless join instructions to make the color changes as smooth as possible.


Switch to color A and knit 8 rounds, carrying color B up the back as before.

Continue striping until sleeve measures the same as the body from the CO edge. Make sure you end the sleeves on the same row of the same color stripe as you ended the body.

When finished knitting, place the last 5 (5, 5, 5, 6) stitches and the first 4 (4, 4, 5, 5) stitches of each sleeve onto scrap yarn. Place the rest of the stitches onto spare needles, a holder, or a separate piece of scrap yarn.

Joining the sleeves onto the body:

On the body, with right side facing, work across 20 (21, 23, 23, 25) stitches in pattern as set (remember to work the seed stitch buttonband in the appropriate color). Use the stripe color that comes next in the sequence (e.g., if you’ve just finished all 8 rows of striping in color A, you will use color B to work across the stitches).

Place the next 9 (9, 9, 10, 11) stitches on scrap yarn.

Work across the 25 (27, 29, 30, 31) remaining stitches of the first sleeve.

Work the next 32 (34, 36, 40, 40) stitches across the back.

Place the next 9 (9,9, 10, 11) body stitches onto scrap yarn.

Work across the 25 (27, 29, 30, 21) stitches of the second sleeve and across the 20 (21, 23, 23, 25) remaining stitches of the body.

122 (130, 140, 146, 152) stitches on needles.

The sleeves and body are now joined.

Work in pattern as set for 2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 2.75, 3) inches. Remember to continue twisting your yarns when working intarsia and to knit button holes!

Shaping the yoke:

Next row: k1,p1,k1,p1, (k1, k2tog) to the last 4 (6, 4, 4, 4) stitches, k 0(2, 0, 0, 0), k1, p1, k1, p1. 84 (90, 96, 100, 104) stitches remaining.

Work 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows as set.

Next row: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1 (1, 1, 2, 0), (k1, k2tog) to last 4 stitches, k1, p1, k1, p1. 59 (63, 67, 70, 72) stitches remaining.

Work next 6 (6, 8, 8, 10, 10) rows as set

Next row: k1, p1, k1, p1, (k2, k2tog) to last 7 (7, 7, 6, 4) stitches, k3(3, 3, 2, 0), k1, p1, k1, p1. 47 (50, 53, 55, 56) stitches remaining.

Work 1 row as set.

If you are on the 2nd or 6th row of a stripe color, work two more rows in that color before proceeding to the collar.

If you are on the 4th or 8th row of a stripe color, proceed straight to the collar.

Collar:
in color A, work 2 rows seed stitch.
Row 3: k1, p1, yo, p2tog, seed stitch to end of row.
Row 4: work in seed stitch.
Bind off in seed stitch.

Finishing:

Remove underarm stitches from scrap yarn and place on DPNs. Graft together using kitchener’s stitch. There may be loose stitches at the edges of each set of underarm stitches; you can tighten those as you weave in the ends.

Weave in all ends.

Sew on buttons.

Wash and block if desired. If making this for a young baby, use baby shampoo to wash to avoid irritating the little recipient’s delicate skin.

Place on adorable baby and enjoy.

Free pattern: honeycomb cable reversible hat

Update 1-31-08: Thanks to blogger Carla, I've found and corrected a mistake in the increase round on the cabled side.

As you can probably tell, I have a thing for very, very warm hats. Given that I live in Chicago, that’s not surprising. While a single-layer hat may be sufficient to block out the cold, once the wind blows, your head is freezing. Therefore, I try to make my hats at least double-layered, if at all possible.


(The honeycomb side.)

This hat was designed to match a scarf my mom bought me, which has a honeycomb cable pattern all over. However, I didn’t want to make both layers of the hat cabled to save time, so I knit the second layer plain. Now I have a hat that can be worn two ways: with the cabled side out, or with the plain side out. There are two layers of wooly warmth (made even denser by the rather close gauge and cables) all over, and the fold-up brim (or cuff. I never know what to call it) gives FOUR layers to protect the sensitive ears. I test-drove (er, wore) this baby this past weekend, with temperatures being a balmy 0F (-18C) and with 20mph winds, and my head was very, very warm. So you know this hat really works.


(The plain side.)

The two layers of the hat are achieved by first knitting hat with a ribbed brim and honeycomb cabled top, then picking up stitched along the cast-on edge and knitting another hat with a honeycomb cabled brim and plain top. One hat then folds up into the other, and the brim folds up, creating a hat that’s all cabled on one side and plain with a ribbed cuff on the other side. To accommodate the double thickness of the hats, each hat/layer is knit LONGER than a hat should be. Be careful to try your hat on if you decide to make yours single-layer so that you don’t end up with a jester’s cap.

Size: to fit my 22-inch head. The hat is meant to fit snugly, though, so it should stretch to accomodate most noggins.

Materials:

-Lion Brand Fishermen’s Wool, 1 skein (you’ll only use about half the skein). Feel free to sub any worsted weight wool; you'll need around 200 yds.
-Size US6/4mm needles (1 19inch circular, 1 set of 4 DPNs)
-Cable needle
-Stitch marker
-Tapestry needle

Gauge: 22 stitches and 32 rounds = 4 inches in honeycomb rib pattern (unstretched). As I have given all instructions in inches rather than rounds, don’t worry if your round gauge doesn’t match up exactly.

Honeycomb rib cable directions:

Worked in multiples of 10 stitches:

Rounds 1-3: (k8, p2) to end of round
Round 4: (C4B, C4F, p2) to end of round
Rounds 5-7: (k8, p2) to end of round
Round 8: (C4F, C4B, p2) to end of round

Abbreviations:
k=knit
p=purl
C4B = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in back of work, k the next 2 stitches, k the 2 stitches from the cable needle
C4F = slip 2 stitches onto cable needle and hold in front of work, k the next 2 stitches, k the 2 stitches from the cable needle
CO: cast on

Directions:

First layer (honeycomb cabled top):

Using the circular needle, CO 100 stitches. Join, being careful not to twist. Mark beginning of round if desired. Work in k2, p2 rib until work measures about 2.5 inches from CO edge.

Increase round: k8, p2, then (k7, m1 knitwise, p2)10 times. 110 stitches.

Next round: begin honeycomb rib pattern starting on round 2 (k8, p2 to end of round). Continue in honeycomb pattern until hat measures 9 inches from CO edge, ending with round 8 of honeycomb pattern.

Begin decreases (switch to DPNs once the stitches start to stretch too much on the circular):

Round 1: (k8, p2tog) to end of round. 99 stitches
Round 2: (k8, p1) to end of round. 99 stitches
Round 3: (k3, k2tog, k3, p1) to end of round. 88 stitches
Round 4: (k7, p1) to end of round. 88 stitches
Round 5: (k2, ssk, k3, p1) to end of round. 77 stitches.
Round 6: (k2, k2tog, k2, p1) to end of round. 66 stitches.
Round 7: (k1, ssk, k2, p1) to end of round. 55 stitches.
Round 8: (k1, k2tog, k1, p1) to end of round. 44 stitches.
Round 9: (k2tog) to end of round. 22 stitches.

Break off yarn, leaving a foot-long tail. Using a tapestry needle, thread yarn tail through all the stitches on the DPNs, taking them off the DPNs as you go. Pull yarn end tightly to secure.

Second layer:

From the CO edge of the first hat, use the circular needle to pick up 110 stitches. (If you can’t pick up 110 stitches, pick up as many as you can and work an increase round to bring you up to 110.)

Work honeycomb rib pattern until the second layer measures 3 inches from CO edge.

Decrease round: (k7, k2tog, p2) 10 times, then k8, p2. 100 stitches.

Next round: (k8, p2) to end of round. Continue to work pattern as set (that is, k8, p2) until second layer measures 9 inches from CO edge. Follow decrease directions as given for the first layer, switching to DPNs when too few stitches remain on the circular needle to work comfortably.

Weave in any yarn ends EXCEPT for the yarn ends at the top of each layer that you used to thread through the leftover stitches. Fold second layer inside first layer. Using the yarn ends left from binding off the leftover stitches, sew from one layer to the other, securing them together in the top center. Tie yarn ends securely and thread to the inside of the hat to hide.

If you fold up the brim, you should now have a hat that has a honeycomb rib pattern on the top and the brim. If you turn the hat inside out, you’ll have a hat that has a wide rib pattern on the top and a k2,p2 cable brim.

Enjoy!

As always, please don’t hesitate to email me if you have any questions (my email is available on the “About Me” page). And if you make this hat, please let me know how you like it…send pictures! Of course, if you find a problem with the pattern or if something is unclear, please let me know, also, so I can fix it for future users!